Pores and oily skin: which beliefs are true and which are not
Pores don't open and close with hot or cold water, their size is mostly genetic, washing more won't cut oil, how to blot properly, and when to see a dermatologist.
- Pores don't open or close with hot or cold water. Heat makes them look bigger for a while; cold makes them look smaller for a few minutes.
- Pore size is mostly genetic. You can make them look smaller by keeping them unclogged, wearing sunscreen and not scrubbing.
- Washing twice a day and after sweating is enough. Washing more often or harder irritates skin.
- Press blotting paper for a few seconds; don't rub. The grey dots on your nose are usually normal sebaceous filaments, not blackheads.
Pores do not open or close with hot or cold water, and their size is mostly set by your genes. What makes them look bigger is clogging, oil, inflammation from scrubbing, and skin losing firmness from sun and age. The good news is you can do something about those, and most of what works is doing less, not more.
This is part 3 of the “Beauty basics” series. It is general information from dermatologists’ advice, not a diagnosis or treatment.
What pores are, and why some people see them more
A pore is the opening of a hair follicle, where an oil gland delivers sebum to the surface of the skin. That oil is not the enemy: it helps protect the skin. The goal is balance, not removing it all.
What makes pores more visible, as the AAD and Cleveland Clinic sum it up:
- Genetics, the main thing that sets size.
- Excess oil and clogging. A clogged pore stretches and shows more.
- Inflammation from scrubbing, hot water, picking and squeezing.
- Loss of firmness from sun damage and age; less collagen around the pore makes it look wider.
- Hormones play a part too.
Belief vs fact
| Belief | Fact |
|---|---|
| Hot water or steam opens pores | Pores don’t open and close. Heat only softens buildup, and hot water irritates skin so pores look larger |
| Cold water or ice closes pores | It makes skin look tighter for only a few minutes |
| A cream can shrink pores for good | Size is mostly genetic; products can make them look smaller |
| Clogged pores mean a dirty face | Blackheads form from dead skin cells and oil plugging the pore, not outside dirt |
| Washing often prevents clogging | How often you wash doesn’t change the tendency to form comedones; over-washing irritates |
| Dry skin doesn’t get visible pores | Dry skin can have noticeable pores too |
| Sun clears pores | UV damages collagen, so pores look wider |
Pores have no door to open or shut. What you can control is keeping them unclogged, uninflamed, and the skin around them firm by avoiding sun damage.
Washing: how often is enough
The AAD’s advice for oily skin is to wash up to twice a day and after sweating, with a mild foaming cleanser, warm (not hot) water and gentle fingertips. No scrubbing.
Why more is not better: harsh cleansers irritate skin, and the AAD notes they may even increase oil production. Alcohol-based or oil-based cleansers are not ideal for oily skin either. Acids such as salicylic, glycolic or lactic can reduce oiliness but may be too harsh; if your skin gets irritated, use them less often, for example alternating days with a gentle cleanser.
Example: a day with oily skin
The common approach: washing 5 times a day (wake-up, before leaving, lunch, evening, bed), scrubbing every evening because “the pores are open”, and rubbing 6-7 sheets of blotting paper across the face.
The recommended approach:
| Time | What | Count |
|---|---|---|
| 07:00 | Wash → gel moisturiser → oil-free sunscreen | Wash 1 |
| 12:30 | Shiny face: press blotting paper for a few seconds on forehead, nose and chin | 2-3 sheets |
| 18:30 | After a sweaty workout, wash | Wash 2 |
| 22:30 | Remove makeup and sunscreen, wash → moisturise | Wash 3 |
That is 3 washes instead of 5, cutting friction by about 40% (2 of 5 washes), with no scrub at all. The third wash is the “after sweating” one; on a day without exercise, it is 2.
If you use retinol at night, the AAD suggests washing and then waiting 30 minutes before applying it to reduce irritation, and not using retinol if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.
Blotting the right way
Blotting paper is the easiest, gentlest fix during the day. The AAD says to press it gently against your face for a few seconds and lift it off. Don’t rub: rubbing spreads oil to other areas and adds friction. For makeup, oil-free, water-based or “matte” formulas help reduce shine.
Another thing that helps a lot: don’t touch your face except to cleanse, moisturise and apply sunscreen or makeup, and wash your hands first.
The grey dots on your nose may not be blackheads
Small, flat grey, light brown or yellowish dots in rows on the nose are usually sebaceous filaments. Cleveland Clinic describes them as a normal structure that carries oil to the surface, not acne. Blackheads tend to be a dark speck in a raised bump with a plug inside.
You cannot get rid of sebaceous filaments. If you squeeze them or pull them out with a strip, the pore refills within about 30 days. Put simply, stripping every week means 4 strips a month chasing something normal, and frequent pulling can dry skin and let bacteria in.
What actually helps pores look smaller
- Products labelled non-comedogenic or oil-free, in both skincare and makeup.
- Daily sunscreen, broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher, even on cloudy days, to protect collagen (part 2 has the details).
- A salicylic acid cleanser or a retinol product can reduce clogging. Start a few times a week.
- Taking all makeup off before bed (part 4).
As for ice or chilled rollers, Cleveland Clinic says the tightening lasts only a few minutes. Fine if you enjoy it, but don’t expect long-term results.
Common mistakes
- Steaming and then squeezing. Squeezing or using extractor tools can scar and makes pores look worse.
- Scrubbing hard. Irritation and inflammation make pores look bigger.
- Washing with hot water. Use warm.
- Skipping moisturiser. Oily skin still needs hydration.
- Rubbing blotting paper. Press and lift.
- Stacking several acid products at once. Irritation comes fast. Add one at a time, as in part 1.
When to see a dermatologist
- You are worried about how much oil your skin makes.
- Blackheads, clogged pores or inflamed acne that basic care or salicylic acid does not improve.
- Exfoliating makes your skin uncomfortable, or you are not sure you should.
- You want to know about in-clinic options, such as prescription retinoids, microneedling or laser, which a doctor needs to assess first.
The next part covers removing makeup and sunscreen completely: micellar water, cleansing oil, and double cleansing.
Sources
FAQ
Does steaming my face open pores to clean them?
Pores don't open and close. Steam only softens oil and buildup, and too much heat irritates skin and makes pores look larger. Washing with warm water as usual is enough.
Are nose pore strips OK?
They do pull things out, but only for a while. What comes out is mostly sebaceous filaments, a normal structure that refills within about 30 days. Pulling them often can dry and irritate skin.
With oily skin, can I skip sunscreen or moisturiser?
Better not. Sunlight breaks down the collagen around pores so they look wider, and oily skin still needs hydration. Choose oil-free, non-comedogenic products.
General guidance. Products differ between brands: always follow the label. If you react to a product, see a doctor.