Remove makeup properly: micellar water, cleansing oil and double cleansing

Removing makeup properly means first using something that dissolves what you put on, then washing your face as usual. Most makeup and sunscreen cling to skin with oils or a water-resistant film, so water and foam alone often fall short, especially with water-resistant sunscreen: in one study, a foaming cleanser still left about a third of it behind.

This is part 4 of the “Beauty basics” series. It is general information, not medical advice.

Why it all has to come off every night

The AAD advises removing makeup and the grime of the day before bed, and tells people with oily skin to remove all makeup every night. The American Academy of Ophthalmology (AAO) puts special weight on mascara and eye makeup, because what is left can irritate the eyes. It describes a woman who slept in mascara for more than 25 years and developed lumps on her eyelids and conjunctivitis.

The options and how they differ

Type	How it works	Good for	Know this
Micellar water	Mild cleansing agents form tiny clusters that hold onto oil and makeup; wipe off with a pad	Light makeup, regular sunscreen, rushed days	It needs wiping, so there is friction; dry skin may find it uncomfortable
Cleansing oil	Oil dissolves makeup and sunscreen; an emulsifier turns it milky with water so it rinses away	Heavy makeup, water-resistant sunscreen	Rinse it all off
Cleansing balm	Solid oil that melts as you warm it with your fingertips; used like an oil	Dry skin, heavy makeup	Store at room temperature; heavy formulas can clog if not rinsed off
Water-based cleanser (foam, gel)	Cleansing agents rinsed off with water	Second step, or no-makeup days	Does not shift water-resistant sunscreen well

A dermatologist writing a column in Dermatology News explains that balms and oils do not foam, so they tend to disturb the skin barrier less than foaming cleansers, and many are not irritating to the eyes, so they work for eye makeup too.

Example: what actually removes water-resistant sunscreen

A 2020 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology had 20 volunteers apply sunscreen, then wash it off with water alone, a foaming cleanser, or a cleansing oil. Residue was measured from skin photographs.

Washed with	Regular sunscreen left	Water-resistant sunscreen left
Water	54.0%	59.3%
Foaming cleanser	15.6%	36.8%
Cleansing oil	13.4%	5.8%
Bare skin, never applied (measurement baseline)	9.9%	3.2%

Step by step:

1. Regular sunscreen. Foam and oil did about the same (15.6% vs 13.4%), and the researchers found neither differed significantly from bare skin. A normal cleanser is enough.
2. Water-resistant sunscreen. Foam left 36.8%; minus the 3.2% baseline, that is about 33.6 points of real residue, roughly a third. Oil left 5.8%; minus 3.2% is about 2.6 points, not significantly different from bare skin.
3. Dryness afterwards. In the foam group 8 of 20 people (40%) reported dry skin; in the oil group, 1 of 20 (5%).

This is one small study using a few products, and the authors say more research is needed. But the direction matches what people find in practice.

If what you put on resists water, you need oil to dissolve it. Water and foam alone are not enough.

Double cleansing: how, and when you need it

Double cleansing means a cleansing oil, balm or micellar water first, then a water-based cleanser.

1. With dry hands on a dry face, use a cleansing oil, or a balm warmed between your fingertips, and massage gently all over.
2. Add a little warm water, keep massaging until it turns milky, then rinse it all off.
3. Follow with a gentle cleanser, rinse with warm water, pat dry, and moisturise as in the basic routine.

Do you need it every day? Not always. If you only wore regular sunscreen, a normal cleanser is enough. The dermatologist in the column above notes that if a balm leaves residue, a second cleanse is reasonable, though most users do not need one. Use it for heavy makeup, water-resistant sunscreen, or when your face still feels filmy.

Eye makeup

The skin around the eyes is thin and remover gets into eyes easily. The AAO advises:

• Use a product made for the eye area, or petroleum jelly, which helps makeup slide off without tugging.
• Keep remover out of the eye, and rinse the eyelids thoroughly afterwards.
• For residue at the base of the lashes, sweep gently with a clean cotton swab.
• Do not use gritty scrubs near the eyes; particles can scratch them.
• Replace eye makeup every 3 months, because bacteria grow easily in creamy and liquid formulas. Never share it.
• If you get an eye infection such as pink eye, throw away the eye makeup you were using and use none until it clears.

A simple technique: rest a soaked cotton pad on the closed eyelid for a moment so the mascara softens, then wipe down in the direction of the lashes instead of rubbing back and forth.

Common mistakes

• Stopping at a makeup wipe. It takes several passes, adds friction and can leave residue. If you use one, wash your face afterwards.
• Scrubbing to get it all off. The AAD warns that scrubbing, even to remove makeup, makes skin look worse. Let the product dissolve it instead.
• Putting oil on a wet face. Most oils and balms are designed to be massaged onto dry skin first, then emulsified with water. Check the directions.
• Not rinsing oil off fully. Oily residue can clog. Rinse well, especially at the hairline and around the nose.
• Foam alone on water-resistant sunscreen. It can leave about a third behind.
• Lining the inner rim of the eye. The AAO advises applying makeup outside the lash line so it does not block the oil glands that protect the eye’s surface.

If a new cleanser or remover makes your skin or eyes sting, turn red or itch, stop using it and rinse with clean water. If it does not settle, see a doctor or pharmacist.

Sources

• The optimal cleansing method for the removal of sunscreen: Water, cleanser or cleansing oil? — J Cosmet Dermatol 2020 (PubMed)
• How to use cosmetics safely around your eyes — American Academy of Ophthalmology
• 10 skin care secrets for healthier-looking skin — American Academy of Dermatology
• How to control oily skin — American Academy of Dermatology
• Cleansing balms — Naissan O. Wesley MD, Dermatology News (MDedge)